Wild Boar with Holy Basil and Green Peppercorn

Cambodia grows some of the world's finest pepper down on the Kampot coast, but up in the highlands pepper is a forest thing, and so is the meat it seasons. Wild boar rooting through the Mondulkiri woods has fed hunters here for as long as anyone has kept count, and stir-fried hard with fresh green peppercorn it becomes the fiercest, fastest dish in the highland repertoire. This is not a slow samlor or a gentle steamed custard; it is the cha pan brought up into the hills, a dry, roaring fry built on lard, chilli, and the green berry still soft on its stalk. Boar makes it wild, but pork shoulder makes it dinner, and no highland cook would call the substitution a failure.

Everything here rides on heat and timing. Slice the meat thin against the grain, get the fat nearly smoking, and move fast — garlic and lemongrass first, then the meat pressed flat to sear, then the green peppercorn stalks crushed against the wok so they perfume the whole pan. Prahok does the salting with a depth fish sauce cannot match; a little oyster sauce and palm sugar round the edges. The holy basil goes in last, off the heat, wilting but still green, its peppery clove-heat rising to meet the fresh pepper's prickle. Serve it the second it comes off the fire, over plain rice, and let it bite.